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Miracles
do happen! I was down to 1 kit left when I received I just
received 30 brand new in the crate Mosfet regulators from I am still out of sealed connectors. Click here for the easiest FH012AA hookup diagram
If you have a 2 or 3 wire stator found on most Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki,
Honda. Triumph, older Ducati motorcycles just to name a few, this upgrade may be
the answer you've been looking for. USE
DROP DOWN MENU FOR SHIPPING OPTIONS Many early motorcycles are plagued with charging system problems, I actually owned a few so I know from experience they had charging problems. It wasn't until I started upgrading a Yamaha V-max did I discover the FH012AA Mosfet fix. It all started when I installed my fuel injection system on my '34 V-max powered Roadstercycle I went through many changes trying to run add on fuel injection, an extra headlight, and an extra tail light. The headlights bulbs where changed from two 55 watt H4 to two 35 Watt H4 bulbs. The tail lights, running lights and turn signals where changed to Leds. It helped but still did not do the trick. Next was the high output stator, I believe that was totally useless, a little change but not what I was looking for, 13.8 to 14.2 volts was my goal. It wasn't until someone told me about a Mosfet regulator that my luck began to change. I took the time to install one and I was blown away buy the results. Before my best charging voltage I could get was 13.6 volts with no headlights about 13.2 with. Now I get 14.2 volts with the headlights on, around 14.4 with them off. I was so jazzed by this that I tracked down the connectors and regulators and made up a kit so other people with this problem can cure there charging problem. So as long as your stator, battery and wiring check out good this should do the trick. Below is a section on checking out a stator, do this before you purchase my Mosfet update kit because if your stator is bad my kit won't help. On a stock bike you will probably have to relocate the new regulator to a new place. You will also have to do a little easy wiring. The new kit comes with power and ground leads you just have to cut to your desired length and install the battery terminals. Then connect these to your battery. Just unplug your old regulator connectors and leave them or remove them, your choice just make sure they are not able to touch anything to create a spark or fire if you leave them in the bike! Tape or heat shrink them. You will have to cut the end off the original stator connector that plugged into your stock regulator and replace it with the one provided. This is pretty easy, you just have to crimp on 2 or 3 terminal ends depending on your stator, single phase is only 2 wires and 3 phase is 3 wires. (crimp and soldier would be best). The terminal ends are for 10 gauge wire and the stator wires around 14 gauge so strip them twice as long as needed then fold the end back on itself to make better connections, I would soldier them also. They are 3 same colored wires, yellow, white or whatever. Connect the 3 wires in any order as in Fig. 1. If you have a single phase 2 wire just connect the wires to 2 of the terminals in the gray connector. My wires are yellow. The red and black 10 gauge wires will go directly to the battery. I've seen some people put a 30 amp fuse in line with the positive red wire going to the battery with a blade fuse holder. Which is a good idea. If you do it make sure to use a Maxifuse holder with screw on terminals, I've seen the smaller blade fuse holders start to char the connectors because of the high current running through them, this starts building up resistance and starts another charging problem all over again. The less connectors the better, they fail more than anything. I read more forums about burnt up connections more than any other. If you do, use a maxifuse holder with screw on terminals. Not the little fuse holders that are showed in the forums. The fuse holder and connections can be another source of bad charging due to overheating of the terminals and creating high resistance. The diagram at the bottom of the page shows where to install it. The Maxifuse in the picture does not come with kit. It can be found at most auto parts stores.
I am using a V-max stator as an
example, check your bikes
We plug in
and check all our regulators to make sure they are working properly
before we ship them to you. So make sure your wiring is correct we will
not warranty regulators that were destroyed by miswiring. So if you fry
a regulator accidentally tell me, I'll do what I can to help you
out! You get the Mosfet FH012AA style regulator (Yamaha PN# 1D7-81960-00-00), connectors, wire terminals, heat shrink, 3 ft of 10 gauge battery hookup wire, you just cut to length and crimp and heat shrink the battery terminal ends. After you are all hooked up and mounted start your bike and check out the difference, wait 5 to 10 seconds for the Mosfet to come on line and you should be very happy. I was extremely happy!!
Email me: jack@roadstercycle.com Jack
Fleming
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